In late 1982, myself backed by ex parfumier Chris Collins open a ludicrously large enterprise called Bibendum Wine in yet to become fashionable Primrose Hill. The building Chris borrowed the money to buy was a large Art Deco garage with its own forecourt and a massive ground floor showroom we filled with wooden cases of 1st growth Bordeaux - many huge formats - and vintage port. One has to remember that this was at the tail end of what many consider the harshest recession since the Second World War. Basically the wine trade was on its knees and here were we launching a seemingly reckless venture as if none of this had happened. The rest of the wine trade was in a pretty sorry state. The point is, Jane McQuitty came to see us. She fixed Chris and I with her steady gaze and fired off the right uncompromising tough questions and to our joy and relief subsequently wrote a wonderfully piece on Bibendum which essentially launched the business for us. Jane’s endorsement in those days was the gold standard. Jane continued to be everything you say Henry, and her independence of thought and incisiveness are exactly what the consumer has valued, and the trade been ever wary of.
What a great piece! I relate to so much of it, having worked in wine retail for years, dreading that moment I couldn't help customers check off their list based on wine column recommendations (because there is almost no harmony between publicists samples and distributor availability), refusing to try anything else. But in the decades since, writing about wine and spirits, and finding fewer publications are interested in covering that topic at all. There's no budget for it. The articles aren't as popular as, say, "Here's Why Your Bartender Hates Making Espresso Martinis". It's all such a shame.
Very good piece - you could argue the whole trade has moved backwards in the last 20 years (from the average consumers' POV). The demise of Oddbins and other high street off-licence chains, the utter and absolute lack of knowledge in multiple grocers despite selling the vast majority of bottles in the UK. Internet all good if you have an idea of what you're looking for but for general, friendly advice and recommendation there is less help than ever.
I hadn't really thought it but yes the decline of the high street does leave a hole which is being filled, perhaps not entirely successfully by influencers, educators etc.
Excellent article. It poses the question that the internet and social media have seemingly conspired to the demise newspaper wine column. Jane Macquitty seems to be the sole survivor. I always admired her compaign against the cynical cost cutting of Diageo.
A good yarn Henry, thanks. From someone who remembers many of your reference points. Is the growth of wine clubs ( by e seemingly every newspaper and many more) worthy of comment re the growth of UK wine drinking? Are they linked to the demise of wine correspondents?
Trust is hard fought to win, others fight hard to lose it. A good recommendation of something that represents ‘value’ is arguably an art form.
I recall the Gluck effect upon Daniel Le Brun- ‘being better than champagne’. I was at Harrods at the time and we had it on list, we burnt through our allocation in less than a morning and had to ration forward orders to a bottle per customer. This at a similar time to Cloudy Bay taking off like a rocket ship.
My lasting memory was that DLB was better than some champagne. M&C NV was in one of its more citric and austere expressions… not good. It was definitively better than that.
I rather like the idea of being a fearsome negotiator but no, there was never much money in wine writing, Tim, Oz and Jancis no doubt being the exceptions. And maybe Jane too whose stamina and devotion to the job is exemplary. Good read!
In late 1982, myself backed by ex parfumier Chris Collins open a ludicrously large enterprise called Bibendum Wine in yet to become fashionable Primrose Hill. The building Chris borrowed the money to buy was a large Art Deco garage with its own forecourt and a massive ground floor showroom we filled with wooden cases of 1st growth Bordeaux - many huge formats - and vintage port. One has to remember that this was at the tail end of what many consider the harshest recession since the Second World War. Basically the wine trade was on its knees and here were we launching a seemingly reckless venture as if none of this had happened. The rest of the wine trade was in a pretty sorry state. The point is, Jane McQuitty came to see us. She fixed Chris and I with her steady gaze and fired off the right uncompromising tough questions and to our joy and relief subsequently wrote a wonderfully piece on Bibendum which essentially launched the business for us. Jane’s endorsement in those days was the gold standard. Jane continued to be everything you say Henry, and her independence of thought and incisiveness are exactly what the consumer has valued, and the trade been ever wary of.
This is a great story, Thank you for sharing.
I remember Bibendum well.
Well done!
A splendid analysis. Enjoyed reading thank you
Thank you! And great to see you this week.
What a great piece! I relate to so much of it, having worked in wine retail for years, dreading that moment I couldn't help customers check off their list based on wine column recommendations (because there is almost no harmony between publicists samples and distributor availability), refusing to try anything else. But in the decades since, writing about wine and spirits, and finding fewer publications are interested in covering that topic at all. There's no budget for it. The articles aren't as popular as, say, "Here's Why Your Bartender Hates Making Espresso Martinis". It's all such a shame.
Thanks Amanda.
Very good piece - you could argue the whole trade has moved backwards in the last 20 years (from the average consumers' POV). The demise of Oddbins and other high street off-licence chains, the utter and absolute lack of knowledge in multiple grocers despite selling the vast majority of bottles in the UK. Internet all good if you have an idea of what you're looking for but for general, friendly advice and recommendation there is less help than ever.
I hadn't really thought it but yes the decline of the high street does leave a hole which is being filled, perhaps not entirely successfully by influencers, educators etc.
Excellent article. It poses the question that the internet and social media have seemingly conspired to the demise newspaper wine column. Jane Macquitty seems to be the sole survivor. I always admired her compaign against the cynical cost cutting of Diageo.
Her proudest moment. In the pre-internet age, you knew that summer was coming when MacQuitty published her cheat's Pimm's recipe.
Surely AI inevitably plays a role in this sad trend…
The decline set in years before AI.
A good yarn Henry, thanks. From someone who remembers many of your reference points. Is the growth of wine clubs ( by e seemingly every newspaper and many more) worthy of comment re the growth of UK wine drinking? Are they linked to the demise of wine correspondents?
Trust is hard fought to win, others fight hard to lose it. A good recommendation of something that represents ‘value’ is arguably an art form.
I recall the Gluck effect upon Daniel Le Brun- ‘being better than champagne’. I was at Harrods at the time and we had it on list, we burnt through our allocation in less than a morning and had to ration forward orders to a bottle per customer. This at a similar time to Cloudy Bay taking off like a rocket ship.
My lasting memory was that DLB was better than some champagne. M&C NV was in one of its more citric and austere expressions… not good. It was definitively better than that.
Nice to read this of wine trade history -the times of inexpensive drink and a large consumer base.
I rather like the idea of being a fearsome negotiator but no, there was never much money in wine writing, Tim, Oz and Jancis no doubt being the exceptions. And maybe Jane too whose stamina and devotion to the job is exemplary. Good read!