Wines of the Week: Sherry at Morrisons

More than just pies and Lambrini

The big Yorkshire supermarkets Asda and Morrisons may have expanded outside their northern strongholds but unlike their upstart German rivals Aldi and Lidl, they’re largely a mystery to the chatterings classes.  

So when reading Dan Keeling’s new book Who's Afraid of Romanée-Conti? which I covered in the Spectator last week I wasn’t especially surprised to find a derogatory remark about Morrisons and supermarket wine in general. I mean, it’s pretty much wall-to-wall pies and Lambrini, right?

But as I pointed out last month, Asda actually has some brilliant wines and while it’s never going to be Yapp Bros or indeed Shrine to the Vine, Keeling’s own wine merchant business, there are gems at Morrisons too. 

Oddly it seems to be particularly strong on sherry so as its International Sherry Week I thought I’d take a closer look. There’ll be more sherry stuff coming on Friday so do sign up if you haven’t already.

Morrison’s premium sherries which are made by Lustau, one of the best producers in the region. Far from being commercial and safe, they are actually idiosyncratic wines of great character. I’ve been drinking The Best Dry Oloroso (£6.50 for a half bottle) for years and it always amazes me that a wine so distinctive is sold in a supermarket. It’s one of those oloroso sherries that brings to mind Oz Clarke’s great description from his book Red & White:

“This is the Grand Inquisitor of sherries, this is the great ascetic, the flagellator, the moaning, keening hermit of sherries. It is magnificent, but you may have to drink it by yourself, wearing a hood.”

Blimey! And it seems that it’s a little too much for some Morrisons customers. One commented that it while it had a “complex intriguing nose” there was a “strong sour vinegar taste”. While someone else said: “my bottle was absolutely awful. It was so sour so must be off. Will put me off sherry for a long time.” 

It’s probably not one to give to your granny. Sorry I mentioned the ‘g’ word. The latest bottling isn’t actually quite so crazy, the slightly dirty flavours have been toned down and it’s all about Brazil nuts, figs and molasses - though bone dry. Try it with a nice bit of manchego and I think you’ll love it. If not feel free to give it one star on the supermarket website. 

There are other sherries at Morrisons that are also well worth your time.