In praise of grenache

It’s like pinot noir but with more alcohol. What’s not to like?

I meant to enter Jancis Robinson’s latest competition where entrants have to write a little ode to their favourite grape variety but I missed the deadline. So as it’s International Grenache Day, here’s roughly what I would have written:

One of the recurring discussions that we wine bores have is which grape would we choose if we were stuck on a desert island and only allowed one. I know, it’s an unlikely scenario. Most people pick pinot noir or riesling. For me though, there can be only one: grenache. I can't think of any other variety that makes so many different wines, from everyday red and rosé to port-style fortified wines in France and Australia. It's even used in cava. You'd never get bored.

Native to Aragon (where it's known as garnacha), it's grown anywhere in the world where there's sufficient heat. It's the main ingredient in burly reds like Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but at altitude produces wines that you might call delicate if it wasn't for that tell-tale warmth in the mouth. grenache rarely clocks in at less than 14% ABV—another reason I love it.

It also has a couple of equally versatile siblings: grenache blanc and the rare grenache gris. Another grenache lover is Justin Howard-Sneyd, a former Waitrose buyer who now makes wine in the Roussillon. He told me: "You can make everything from plump wild strawberry flavoured rosé through juicy gluggable reds to serious complex age-worthy fine wines." And indeed he does at his vineyard, Domaine of the Bee. He went on to say: "If you love the perfume and sexiness of pinot noir, but appreciate a riper, rounder style of wine, then I don't think you need to look much further than grenache."

My wine of the year so far

I couldn't agree more. In the past, grenache'sadaptability meant that it was historically seen as a workhorse variety without the glamour of pinot noir or syrah, but that is now beginning to change. Sommeliers love it: Merlin Ramos from Gridiron in London said: "grenache is a grape that despite hard weather, rugged terrain, and bad soil will triumph"; Jean-Baptiste Sory from Helix restaurant at the Gherkin praised grenache-based wines as "distinctive and so drinkable."

And this gets to the heart of it, grenache, unlike austere cabernet sauvignon or difficult pinot noir, is always fun even when it's being serious. It’s also a great mixer with a special affinity for syrah, carignan, mourvedre and other southern grapes. Now there's a day devoted to it; this year it's today, but for me, every day is International grenache Day.

Domaine of the Bee is based in the foothills of the Pyrenees. While grenache needs lots of warmth, it can start to taste jammy if it gets too ripe. Cool nights found at altitude help it stay fresh. Winemakers in Spain are also taking to the hills like Montsant in Catalonia, Sierra de Gredos not far from Madrid, and the higher parts of Rioja.

The apotheosis of this style of perfumed elegant grenache is Château Rayas in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a wine that I am sadly unlikely to ever try because it's very rare and expensive. Nevertheless, it has become hugely influential to ambitious grenache growers. Outside France and Spain, South Africa, Australia, and California are all making grenache you might think was Burgundy if it wasn't for the tell-tale warmth at the end.

Yes, grenache is usually highly alcoholic. No matter how ethereal it might taste, it rarely comes in at below 14%. Do not attempt any of the wines below without some seriously hearty food and a chauffeur.

For paid subscribers, here are some wines to celebrate International Grenache Day: