Biodynamic woo woo

"We are all shamen on a spiritual quest. And we travel on this journey using the energy of the life force"

Before we get into today’s post, I thought I should let readers know that I will be at the Cuckfield Book Festival tomorrow, Saturday 5 October at 7pm, talking about my English wine book. Best of all Ridgeview will be there with some sparkling wines to try. So if you’re in the area, please do come down, it would be great to meet you. Right, let’s get on with today’s post…

There’s an episode of spoof chat show Knowing Me, Knowing Me with Alan Partridge where magician Tony Le Mesmer tells his host: “We channel energy from within to without”. Alan replies: “Now I’m going to try and pin you down here. Can you be more specific?” Tony responds: “I am a man who harnesses the harmony that is within us all.” Alan is not convinced: “Hmm, now that’s more vague. I want you to be more specific.”

Tony Le Mesmer!

This is how I feel talking to biodynamic producers. I want to know how it works and they talk about channelling energy or the movement of the planets. Biodynamics is often billed as organic viticulture with some bells and whistles. But it’s a whole lot weirder than that. 

It’s based on a series of lectures given by an Austrian crank called Rudolf Steiner in 1924 which were published in a book: Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture. He also influenced education - hence Steiner schools - and believed that we are descended from a jelly-like race known as Lemurians. He has more in common with L. Rob Hubbard the founder of Scientology than Jethro Tull (the 18th century agriculturist, not the band).

The core of Steiner’s teaching is a series of preparations to be used in the field like number 503 - chamomile blossoms stuffed into cattle intestine and buried in the ground over the winter. This last one makes fertiliser more nitrogen resistant, apparently. You have to dilute it to homeopathic quantities and then ‘energise’ it by stirring it in a ritual way. Got a pest problem? Steiner has the answer. He writes: “Catch a fairly young mouse and skin it, … but you must obtain this skin of the field-mouse at a time when Venus is in the sign of Scorpio… “ If your mouse is too young or old, it won’t work. 

I’m not the only one who is sceptical: “It's a mixture of paganism and homeopathy”, says Bob Midleton who runs an organic estate in the Languedoc Domaine les Caizergues. He has a background in chemistry and finds it hugely frustrating. As for the preparations, he thinks Steiner “just made it up.” Meanwhile Stuart Smith from Smith-Madrone in California has made his mission to expose Steiner’s teaching on his blog, the aptly named ‘Biodynamics is a Hoax’.  

Midleton thinks the reason so many highly-regarded producers follow Steiner’s teaching is “pure marketing.” Biodynamics can be a lucrative business. In order to get certification you have to pay a percentage of your income to Demeter. Caro Feely who farms biodynamically near Bergerac has parted ways with the regulatory body explaining: “the Demeter certification fee was a percentage of sales across everything - including the renting of holiday accommodation…”

Nevertheless, Feely still thinks that Steiner’s teachings are effective: “Biodynamics offered a practical point solution to disease but over time it delivered much more…” Mark Walford from Le Soula in Roussillon which converted to biodynamics in 2011 describes how the soil in a biodynamic vineyard has more invertebrates - it’s teeming with life. He also describes how the wines need less sulphur because they are naturally full of ‘energy’. What’s not clear is how spraying what is essentially water on the field leads to these outcomes. Ben Walgate who farmed biodynamically at Tillingham in Sussex is pragmatic about biodynamics: “most people do the practice because they have to. It works but not for the reason they think.” 

Biodynamics celebrates its 100th anniversary this year and in some ways our world looks a lot like Steiner’s. Europe is at war, great empires are in decline and old certainties are being questioned. People are looking for something to believe in, even if it sounds absolutely batshit crazy. I understand the biodynamic impulse. I just don’t understand why Guardian-reading, follow-the-science, evidence-based people can shrug their shoulders and accept what is essentially a religion in a way they wouldn’t if a priest came out and shook holy water on the vines. 

Yet despite my scepticism, why do my ears prick up when I learn that a producer is biodynamic? Because it’s a good way of signalling obsession. You don't have to be biodynamic to make superb wine, but following biodynamic principles means that you do have to get to know your vineyard very well.  I just wish it didn't come with all the mumbo jumbo.

This originally appeared in Wickhams Wine Merchant’s quarterly magazine, The Drop.